To celebrate the winter solstice we publish EC Gaffer, Peter Smith’s log from his passage to Snape earlier this year aboard ‘Dream Catcher’, our featured boat for December. ‘Dream Catcher’ is a gunter gaff rigged Norfolk Gypsy, Boat no.1, first launched April 1990. She was designed by Andew Wolstenholme, along with ‘Gafflings’, amongst others. Purchased from Charlie Ward, Norfolk Boat Builders, in 1999 and after 26 years of ownership, I still love her to bits.
Thursday 11 May 2025
Well, I guess it’s just like any other holiday – no matter how long in the planning, or how well organised, one is always running around at the last minute. Today was no exception. Mike was due by noon, and I still had to check out some kit, fill up the outboard for the dinghy, and find a sleeping bag! Mike arrived at 1130, laid back, organised, and apparently looking forward to this trip, planned some 4 months earlier in the cold dark months of winter. Kit, clobber, food, gismos and all were stowed away on board by 1240, and ‘Dream Catcher’ slipped her mooring on this fine sunny afternoon, a gentle easterly blowing on the nose as we motored down the river Stour from Manningtree to Harwich Harbour.
Ha’penny Quay, our first port of call at 1440, gave us a good excuse to sit in the sun on the pier’s café to enjoy an excellent cup of coffee, and relieve any stress on the plumbing aboard ‘Dream Catcher’. Officialdom reared its ugly head in the form of the Harbour Master, on our return. He was collecting tariffs for those unsuspecting mariners daring to stay after 1600. A fee was demanded, but with Mike’s quickness of tongue, expertise in the use of BS, and sharing with me, the need to avoid spending money unnecessarily, was able to talk his way out of having to open that sacred wallet. We left the quay hurriedly but happy, for another daunting leg of the journey across the Harbour to lock in to Shotley Marina at 1710.
Taking a berth, a shower and money from the aforementioned sacred wallet to pay for our one-night stay, we settled down to a pleasant evening in the company of our respective wives Jackie and Sharon, who for the purposes and pleasurable nature of our trip, became colloquially and disrespectably known as the Shotley Tarts. We were as near to heaven as life in this world could be. Good food, wine, (or was it beer?), and a beautiful sunset preceding a full moon spoilt us still further. The only downside was the thought of locking out at 0545 the next morning in order to time the tide right for entry into the river Ore. Log: 10.9nm
Friday 12 May
We slipped the floating fenders of Shotley Lock and motored into the light mist of a dawn promising a beautiful morning. We were not to be disappointed, as with sails set, we headed out of Harwich Harbour with a track set on the GPS to take us across the shipping lane at ‘Deane’ & ‘Rolling Ground’, and on through the black-flagged markers of lobster pots and sprightly little fishing boats working them in the glistening playground of this awesome East coast on a morning as perfect as one could wish for. We were cruising on past Felixstowe beach at 0705. The Deben had been set in the passage plan as a ‘bolt hole’ should conditions have deteriorated, but as events unfolded, the weather remained our friend as we passed Woodbridge Haven SW buoy at 0800.
Orford Haven came into view as we slipped past the Martello tower, just south of the mark at 0900. We followed closely the chartlet of Orford entrance with a clear 3.5 mtrs depth between Oxley and Weir buoys, and a minimum of 2.7 mtrs along the landward side of the river as we moved up to North Weir point. From there, a move over to the seaward side of the river, and we were safely in the Ore.An hour and a quarter later, having travelled on up the most unwelcoming stretch of the river, with barely a landmark save a few fishermen’s sheds, we arrived at Orford. A pretty village with an active quay seeming more beautiful highlighted against the flat featureless surrounding landscape, and now basking in the mid morning sunshine. At 1100 we passed the transit of the 5 huge radio masts that dominate the northern end of Orford Ness, and entered the Alde. Another 3nm further and we picked up a mooring abreast Aldeburgh Yacht Club at 1140.Sailing over for the day, a tidy up to get shipshape, followed by a quick shower at the YC, and we were ready for the arrival of Jackie and Sharon, who had driven up with provisions and overnight gear.
Aldeburgh town looked so relaxed in the afternoon sun as we took in the sights and forced down a cool beer at the Cross Keys pub, though they refused to serve even a sarnie at 10 past 2 in the afternoon, leaving us feeling a little unwanted and peckish! Undeterred, a walk along the High Street to the Co-Op provided all that was needed to satisfy that empty feeling. Later, we all meandered back to the Yacht Club, and freshened up in preparation for a delightful evening meal at the Lighthouse restaurant. A superb meal to complete what had proved so far to be a perfect trip. Log: 33.2nm
Saturday 13 May
With Mike and I giving up our bunks to Jackie and Sharon, we slept soundly under the boom tent. Wakened by the sound of rain on canvas we were slow to stir, and reluctant to decide positively when to leave for Snape. The rain cleared just before 1000, and with the promise of at least a drier spell, cast off the mooring at 1050 for the upper reaches of the Alde. Wow! What an amazing experience, following withies for just over 5½nm up a river, in places just on a mile wide, but with withies sometimes barely wide enough apart to pass between, the gut way snakes back and forth across this flat landscape, creating a remarkable challenge to anyone foolish enough to take it on.The reward is a most attractive destination at Snape Maltings Bridge. Coming alongside the quay at 1200, ‘Dream Catcher’ waited whilst we took tea and scones in brilliant warm sunshine at the teashop and had a mosey around the tourist gift shops. It felt so different to have arrived by boat rather than car, so often experienced in the past.
Returning to the boat, we were surprised to see a ‘Miss Marple’ type character sitting comfortably in the cockpit. She had assumed ‘Dream Catcher’ was running river tours up and down the Alde. It seemed almost heartless to break the news, and turf her off onto the quay, leaving her disappointed. Aware of tidal restrictions, we turned in the narrow river and headed back to Aldeburgh at 1425 on the top of the tide. Shortly after leaving, ominous black clouds forewarned of a serious imminent wetting, and sure enough having donned wet weather gear, while Jackie and Sharon got cosy below, Mike and I shared a truly remarkable soaking. The river began to boil as the weight of the rain overpowered the water’s surface already being whipped up by the gusting frontal wind. To hold a course, more power was called for to increase speed, and with the reducing visibility it became very demanding to remain focused on these wooden signposts projecting from the mud. Plugging on southward the river widened, the withies passed less frequently and the rain began to ease to a mere downpour. It was not until after our return to Aldeburgh at around 1600, and following our fabulous fish and chip supper, eaten in the car overlooking the sea, that the skies cleared and left us with a cool clear evening and a watery sunset.
1820 and we were on the move again. Jackie and Sharon had packed their bags and abandoned ship leaving Mike and I to follow our planned passage southward to the Butley River, in order to be closer to the mouth of the Ore for an early morning tide tomorrow. As we worked our way downstream, choosing the northern passage around Havergate Island, the river showed us more attractive scenery than the southern route. A further turn into Butley river and we were upon a strangely barren beauty so far from man made noise; alone, quiet and at one with nature. After a short reconnoitre up past Boyton Dock and the Old Ferry Landing, we returned to drop anchor just below Boyton Dock. A well earned cup of coffee and we were about as chilled out as one could wish for. I think we both slept the best night’s sleep of the whole trip. Log: 51.4nm
Sunday 14 May
An early start, weighing anchor at 0715, we needed to be at the mouth of the Ore LW + 1hr or so. Blessed with another fine sunny morning, we motored freely down to the river mouth, only to put ‘Dream Catcher’ on the shingle close to the marker post opposite North Weir Point. No problem, apart from jamming up the centre plate, presumably with stones. Unable to free even after dropping anchor to give ourselves time to remedy, we were left with the unfortunate proposition of motoring back to Harwich. Such a shame as we had a pleasant south easterly following us back. Past the Deben SW buoy at 0900, we cruised into Harwich in time to watch a bit of Sunday sailing from the ‘marinas gangs’. Turning into the Stour with the wind backing easterly we were able to hoist sail and peacefully creep up to Manningtree arriving at our mooring at 1300. Log: 79.4nm
With a tidy up, and all gear stowed aboard the tender, we disembarked at 1400, to be greeted by Sharon waiting to pick us up. A very special thanks to my trusted companion Mike, who endured my company for near on 4 days, ensured our safe passage with his awesome knowledge and navigational skills (cough!), and provided almost perfect weather conditions throughout the whole adventure. Thanks, must also be bestowed upon Jackie and Sharon, without whose attention to detail, provision of supplies and providers of uplifting company during our darkest hours, this trip may never have had a happy ending.
Words and photos: Peter Smith
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